The Long Neck Village and Their Story

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I had the chance to visit the “long neck” village in Thailand. The village, named Huai Sua Tao, has its roots in migration from Myanmar. When I arrived, there were about 10 small shops selling souvenirs, mostly run by women. All of them wore brass rings around their necks, something I had previously only seen in newspapers or movies.​

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What I Saw

These people told me that they are not native Thais; they are a group of refugees from the town of Kayah in Myanmar, where they migrated nearly 30 years ago. They have maintained their distinct culture. They live in a matriarchal society, and wearing long neck rings is a tradition for all the girls in their village.

When the girls turn 5, they begin wearing rings around their necks. The number of rings gradually increases over the next four years, and they will wear them for the rest of their lives. The rings stack up, making the girls’ necks appear longer and longer. Once put on, they are never removed. Some women have necks as long as 25 cm with 20 rings stacked up, weighing 3 kg.

According to their tradition, a woman with a longer neck is considered a sign of wealth and happiness. In families with means, girls as young as 10 years old will also wear rings around their ankles.

Tourists, like me, visit, take photos, and purchase the products on display. Thai visitors enter for free, while foreigners have to buy a ticket costing around 350,000 VND.

Controversy

“It’s like a human zoo,” said Kitty McKinsey, spokesperson for UNHCR (the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees), amid allegations that the Thai government is particularly preventing Kayah women from resettling in third countries due to their value in tourism.

“At first, I didn’t understand why they had to let tourists in to visit us. Later, I learned it’s because we have a unique and attractive culture that many people want to learn about,” Ma Ja explained.

She also mentioned that, on the positive side, tourists create jobs and additional income for families through souvenir sales. “Selling souvenirs has become our main source of income, as we have no other revenue. Without tourists, we don’t know what we would do.”

Ma Pang, a 34-year-old mother of two, shared: “I never had the chance to go to school. When I arrived here, I started selling souvenirs. I’ve worn rings since I was 9 because it’s part of our culture. Being here is a blessing for me. Even though I didn’t get an education, I can help my mother make a living.”

Although safer than their homeland, life in Thailand remains quite difficult for the migrants in Huai Sua Tao. The village is underdeveloped with intermittent electricity, barely enough to charge phones or power an old TV in the cramped wooden houses. But that is part of the experience tourists are willing to pay for.

“Tourists wouldn’t want to visit if the village were developed,” said Boonrat Santisuk, the village gatekeeper.

Hope for Something Different

Opportunities to live and work in Thailand are severely limited for undocumented migrants like the Kayah, with the cost of living potentially significantly higher. Therefore, moving beyond the hilly area near the village is a difficult prospect.

And although most women, including Ma Pang, appreciate life in Huai Sua Tao and welcome tourists, she cannot help but yearn for something different.

“I don’t have a choice. If I had the opportunity to go to school, I would probably be doing a different job instead of the daily routine of being photographed. I feel like there’s more to life than just these tasks,” Ma Pang said.

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